Sunday, February 15, 2015

Indian Adventures: Week 1



My last bog, I left off feeling jet lagged, a little lost, and eager to begin my new adventure here in India. So much has happened, since I landed in this fascinating country, and I am going to try my best to sum everything up in the most simple and brief way, although I could write a book about everything I’ve experienced so far. First let me say that the 3 other participants in my program are amazing. 2 are from New York City, and 1 is from London. The beautiful thing about out group, is that we are all in the same stages of life and around the same age. Our common passion for giving back to the community, has established a strong sense of family amongst us. I know I will be friends with them forever.

Ben, Emily, Tanya, and I at Leopolds. Yes, that is a "pint" of beer.
 This week has been intensive orientation week, where we are meeting with key figures both in the Jewish community, and within the Gabriel Project. We have also begun training on how to teach the children in the slums, and in addition, have started Hindi classes. Our program director Jacob has been showing us the ins and outs of Mumbai, and his hospitality and passion for our success here in this foreign land, has been incredible. I mentioned the chaos of the traffic in my previous blog. There are no lanes here, nor road rules to follow. Basically this means that people walk in the middle of traffic all the time, and cars nearly scrape each other. It may seem like there would be numerous accidents, but there isn’t. I have become adjusted to walking in the middle of traffic, and riding comfortably in a taxi without feeling like we are going to crash. The loud honking and chaos of the roads, has almost become white noise to me now.

I also mentioned the severity of the poverty here in Mumbai, and sadly I am becoming less affected by it, on a daily basis. There are lots of beggars here, that will follow you asking for money, food, and anything else. I have learned it is best to ignore them, because many of the beggars do not directly receive the money. The money often is given to the higher up people the beggars work for.  Children will stop you in traffic, and women will rent babies, to make you feel guilty into giving them money. The best thing you can do, is give the beggars food because, they are likely to keep it for themselves.

Daharvi Slum
 While in the topic of poverty, I will discuss our trip to the largest slum in Asia, and one of the largest in the world called Daharvi slum. Dharvi is a commercial slum, where products are developed there and exported into the city. Many workers in the slums, come from rural areas of India, where literacy and education is not needed to complete the work. Workers in this slum must work 10-12 hours each day, and make roughly 1,000 rupees per month which is equivalent to 16 dollars. Those who live in houses, must pay rent, and taxes which ends up being half their salary with little left to put food on the table. The government provides electricity and water to the legal slums. Workers will often sleep in their working quarters, because they can’t afford to live in a “home”, and they cannot afford to miss any hour of work from transportation.  Some of the raw materials produced at the slum include plastic, leather, breads, pottery, and cloth.

The working conditions in this slum are very dangerous as toxic fumes, unsanitary water, and lack of toilets, are rampid.  1 toilet is shared by hundreds of workers. These conditions are why the life expectancy in the slums is very low. The workers, report to the owners of the business within the slum. The organization of the slum is similar to a city within city, and it’s amazing how consistent and proficient the slum workers are in producing the raw materials. While the conditions of the slum are horrific, there is a strong sense of community and belonging there. I think the idea of a common struggle to survive, creates a commitment to keeping a community safe and prosperous. There are high rise apartments being built, for slum workers, which is a little better than the residences inside the slums. However, the expense and lack of community, convinces slum workers to remain in the slums. It’s fascinating, that a family would rather live in a cramped room, in a dark narrow alleyway with no privacy, no sanitation, than to be upgraded into an apartment without a community vibe.  The slums are divided between a Muslim and Hindu section. The Hindu section is “nicer” and more colorful than the Muslim section. This is due to religious constraints towards Muslim women, who are not allowed to work outside with men, and are limited in their roles within the slums. Many of them have lots of children, which makes living situations more difficult; I could write en entire book on slums, but I will switch to another topic that is less heavy and more uplifting.

Typical Indian Food
I am becoming obsessed with Indian food. Indian food is amazing, and quite spicy. I can’t recall the names of each kind of food I have tried, but generally Indian food is vegetarian. Flat breads, rice, spicy sauces, and yummy beverages have spoiled our taste buds immensely. I have loved every kind of food I have had here so far, and all of your senses literally light up, when eating Indian food. It’s an amazing feeling. Walking the streets is an experience within itself, when smelling the aroma of the open air cooking and blending of Indian flavors. We have walked quite a bit these last few days, touring the landscape and architecture of the city. Mumbai is a city of diversity, both ethnically and religiously. I have seen Hindu temples, mosques, synagogues, and Victorian architecture. It is important to remember that India was once colonized by Britain, and therefore many aspects of British style, can be seen throughout the city. In addition, I have noticed that when Indians speak English, they sound a bit British. Most Indians speak English.

Hindu Temple
The city of Mumbai is beautiful, despite the wealth gap and prevalence of slums. The wealth gap here is defined by modern million dollar buildings, being constructed on top of and next to slums. The Caste system can still be recognized, as higher classes separate themselves from the lower classes.  Higher classes believe that there is no need to give charity to the lower classes because of the concept of Karma. Karma means that your current life situation is determined by your past life, and one must work hard for a better life in the future. Being born into a higher class, means there is no need to worry about the lower classes and there is a feeling of entitlement.  In modern India, the separation of castes is more of a result of the importance of belonging to a community where everyone is the same. There are so many different kinds of communities, here, each with their own traditions, and values. The beautiful thing I have seen here within the varying communities is the common importance of community and family.

Mumbai Skyline

I am so impressed and inspired by the Jewish community here. While the community here is small and dispersed, there is still a strong commitment to bringing Jews together. The Jewish Community Center of Mumbai, has Hebrew school, Adult education classes, holiday celebrations, youth camps, and social gatherings just like any other JCC in the world. This is all thanks to American Joint Distribution Committee, which strives to sustain Global Jewish life by providing funding and aid to Jewish communities worldwide. Most of the Indian Jewish community in India has made Aliyah to Israel. But those who are still here are actively engaged in Jewish life ranging from Tikkun Olam, to attending Shabbat services, and spending time at the JCC.  This past weekend, we attended services at a Baghdadi Synagogue and had dinner at Chabad which was very interesting. I recognized some of the prayers but most were orthodox style. The Shul was absolutely stunning. Having Shabbat dinner at Chabad with Jews from all over the world was rather comforting, many of whom were Israelis. I would have never imagined there being a Jewish community in India, and I am very impressed and inspired by their initiatives in helping to sustain Jewish life here in Mumbai.
Jewish Community Center of Mumbai
 
 

We had the privilege of volunteering with GPM volunteers, all of whom are Jewish youth. We helped to teach children from the slums, the importance of eating healthy fruits and the health benefits associated with the fruits. In addition, we played games with them in a beautiful park by the sea. These children have never seen an ocean before, and were amazed and excited over things as simple as an airplane, and, helicopter. It was moving to me, to watch these children so eager to learn the English language and to be engaged with us foreigners. There is a high level of respect and admiration for foreigners here, and Indians have honestly been some of the most genuine people I have ever met. Their passion for education, and their hospitality, has impressed me so much. Following the volunteer session, we headed over to the JCC to learn some Bollywood dancing. Bollywood dancing is so much fun. We absolutely loved, it, and let me tell you, we worked up a sweat. I guess I will end this blog here, by saying that this experience has already been very eye opening, and life changing for me.  The people, the culture, the land of India, have already found a special place in my heart, and I can’t wait to see what the next 2 months will bring. Shalom for now.

 

Teaching the children about healthy fruits


 
The postings on this site are my own and do not necessarily represent the positions, strategies, or opinions of the American Jewish Joint Distribution Committee. 
 


No comments:

Post a Comment